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Panel lines

Materials:
tooth picks (for rubbing out mistakes), napkins/ towel papers, clear work space with bright light, .005mm black Micron pen, .01mm black Micron pen, clean pencil eraser with pointed edge

For the really thin lines as well as the finger joints and head I used a .005mm, yes that's a .005mm black Micron pen I got at Aaron Brothers. They also have them at Michaels. They do take a while to dry which is actually a blessing because you can easily wipe away the mistakes using a clean pointed pencil eraser. For the thicker lines such as the ones on the back pack and the vents on the chest I used a .01mm black Micron pen.  

I was thinking about using another color, like grey or brown (for Ben) but I like the look of the black. Grey or brown for the panel lines may look "more realistic" but to me, the black gives it more of that "anime" look. A super detailed anime look, but anime just the same.






Hip bars

Materials:
tooth picks, napkins/ towel papers, clear work space with bright light, Testors flat white modeling paint, small paint brushes, masking tape, scissors, plastic cup with soapy water, plastic cup with 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol cotton swabs.

The white painted hip bars really makes a difference.  I used regular modeling paint, Testors flat white (1168 White) and I did not have to sand down the bars for the paint to stick. I did use a 50/50 blend of water and rubbing alcohol to clean the bars.  Only two screws hold the legs onto the bars, but they are different lengths. After you remove the legs, just be careful of what screw goes where when you reassemble. I also did a lot of masking with regular masking tape cut into small strips to prevent paint bleeding onto the fuselage. It takes about three coats of white to cover up the chrome.


The good news is that I have transformed it now a couple of times and the white paint on the hip bars/swing bars is still there with no chips! Well, I had to be careful about the uhf antennas (fins on nose) where it chipped a little on the inside, but you can't see it after you transform the veritech. There are no parts that come in contact with the hip bars/swing bars.



Shoulders

Materials:
tooth picks, napkins/ towel papers, clear work space with bright light, Testors flat white modeling paint, small paint brushes, masking tape, scissors, plastic cup with soapy water, plastic cup with 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol cotton swabs, .005mm black Micron pen,


I painted the shoulder hinges white and brought out the low-thrust vernier thrusters with the .005mm black Micron pen. It took three coats of paint to cover over the chrome.  What about 30 minutes to 1 hour to apply the next coats. It is important to use the making tape to cover up the areas you do not want to paint. Take time to do a good masking job, later you will not regret it. The good news is that, once dry, the paint does not chip after transformations.



Heat Shield

Materials:
masking tape, scissors, 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol cotton swabs, .005mm black Micron pen, number 2 pencil, clean pencil eraser with pointed edge


After I figured out what the shape should be, I cleaned off the heat shield with the 50/50 water alcohol solution to clean off any oils. After it dries, I lightly outlined the shape with the pencil. Then I outlined the shape with the masking. The masking tape becomes the stencil for the panel lines.  With stencil in place, carefully follow the edges with the .005mm black Micron pen. Remove the tape and use the eraser to fix up any smears. If you mess up, erase away, clean off and try again. It’s that easy.  With panel lines on the heat shield, it doesn't look so long and plain.



Stickers

Materials:
small jewelers flat head screw driver or tweezers (I used the screw driver) 50/50 solution

Use the 50/50 solution  to clean off the surfaces for the stickers. Once dry, apply away with a tiny flat head screw driver to help you place your stickers.



Head

Materials:
50/50 water/rubbing alcohol cotton swabs, .005mm black Micron pen, eraser

Clean off the areas you want to detail with the cotton swabs and the 50/50 solution. Detail away. Keep eraser handy for any mistakes. Always remember to clean off eraser to prevent smudging.



Air Intakes

Materials:
Testors Enamel flat black, small paint brushes, masking tape, scissors, 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol cotton swabs

Carefully mask off the area you are painting with the masking tape and paint away. It take 1 to 2 coats. Use toothpick to gently rub away any excess.  All the painting I did I did by hand, but I did a lot of masking with regular masking tape both around the leg bars and intakes. Keep plenty of tooth picks ready because they can be used to gently rub off paint smears that are semidry.


Feel free to add or change any steps that might help you. Overall It wasn't too hard, but it does take time and many breaks. It's no rush job, besides, you can't rush a MASTER PIECE!!!  = )


Here is a free hand drawing I did from the box art of an old IMAI model kit. If you look closely, I added some details from my MPC.


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